It isn't a stretch (pun intended) to say that nobody wants stretch marks on any part of their body. Once these grooved, tread-like marks show up, the quest to find something, anything to get rid of them begins. As a result, bogus products for stretch marks abound.

Products, Products Everywhere!

Products that lead women to waste their money and hope for an improvement in the appearance of stretch marks include StriVectin-SD, Mederma, Vita-K Solution, Magia Bella, Maternity Solutions, ScarSof Scar Softening Cream, and various options from brands such as Phytomer, Decleor, Mustela, and Caudalie. Despite the ads you've seen and the claims you've heard about these products, none of them have substantiated evidence they can prevent or improve stretch marks. In fact, for Mederma there is actually research showing that it doesn't work at all.

Vitamin E for Stretch Marks?

Applying vitamin E or some plant oil doesn't help either, and there is no research showing otherwise. It all adds up to myths and anecdotal accounts mixed with hope, because stretch marks are not caused by dry skin that requires a special supplement. Rather, stretch marks develop far below the skin's surface due to extreme strain, stress, and trauma that eventually break down the skin's support structure. No moisturizer or oil in the world can prevent that kind of injury and damage to the skin from taking place.

Anatomy of Stretch Marks

Stretch marks occur when skin is abnormally distended or stretched for a period of time, such as from pregnancy or weight gain. This causes the skin's support structure (in the form of collagen and elastin) to break down or rupture. In fact, the visibly curled ends of stretch marks are actually bands of elastin broken beneath the skin. Essentially, stretch marks are a scar that has formed from the inside out, rather than scarring that occurs when skin is externally wounded.

It may surprise you (it surprised me) to know that in the United States it is estimated that 90% of pregnant women, 70% of adolescent females, and 40% of adolescent males have stretch marks. There does not seem to be an ethnic tendency toward stretch marks, as all races can be affected.

Treating Stretch Marks: What's Possible

What can you do? Regrettably, there are no cosmetic ingredients or products that can improve stretch marks. It is impossible for any cosmetic to raise the indentations back to where the skin level used to be or repair snapped elastin fibers. You can fall for the ads, but it will simply be money thrown down the drain.

In the pharmaceutical realm, there is some research showing tretinoin (the active ingredient in Retin-A, Renova, or in generic form) can have a positive effect on stretch marks. Typical improvement is 20%, which isn't necessarily exciting, but may still be worth the effort and expense. The dilemma for expectant mothers is that tretinoin cannot be used during pregnancy, and is also contraindicated if the mother-to-be intends to breastfeed her baby.

Studies have been conducted using Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and Pulsed Dye Laser (PDL) treatments emitting 585 nanometers (nm) of light to improve stretch marks. Results after five sessions were labeled as a clinical improvement, with microscopic analysis showing improvement in the length, depth, and coloration of stretch marks. This type of laser carries a low risk of side effects and complications when operated at appropriate treatment parameters and time intervals. Cost for a series of treatments can run upwards of $2,500 depending on how your skin responds and what the average fees are in your area. That's a lot of money for what could very well be minimal results, but it's still a better option than wasting money on skin-care products claiming to banish stretch marks.

Beyond non-ablative lasers, you can also consider a series of chemical peels. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels may be of some help for improving the appearance of stretch marks when used at the proper concentration (typically 20% TCA) and applied by a dermatologist or cosmetic surgeon skilled in the use of this type of peel. Because TCA peels penetrate further than AHA or BHA peels, they are believed to have a greater ability to stimulate collagen and elastin for the depth of damage seen in stretch marks. Remember, deeply damaged strands of these skin-supporting substances are chiefly responsible for the emergence of stretch marks and skin-care products cannot change that damage.

Sources: Burns, 2009, September 17; Aesthetic and Plastic Surgery, January 2008, pages 82-92; and Clinical Experimental Dermatology, August 2009, 688-693; Dermatological Surgery, August 2009, pages 215-210; Dermatologic Clinics, January 2002, pages 55–65).