Straightening Curly, Frizzy Hair

Problem: How can I straighten and smooth my naturally curly (frizzy) hair? I have tried everything!

Solution: Most of the anti-frizz styling products out there work very well but not without the aid of good styling tools (meaning high heat) and the right brushes (soft but firm bristles). Yet even after all of that, if there is any humidity in the air, none of this will work to keep hair smooth.

I suspect you haven't found the right combination of products and styling tools yet. It is difficult to suggest exactly which ones would work best for you, as the smallest nuances between products often make or break how any given person feels about them, but wouldn't affect my review. For example, you may like a lotion smoothing product while someone else may like a gel, and another a styling spray, or a combination of all three depending on the thickness of your hair. As a general rule, and this is only a general rule, be sure to use a silicone serum (Citre Shine and John Frieda make good ones, but there are dozens more), and then a styling lotion or styling spray; for these types of products, L'Oreal's Studio Line and Physique (both at the drugstore) have a great range of options to consider.

It is also important to be sure you are using the right blow dryer (1875 watts is best), flat iron (the new ceramic plates are excellent), or curling iron (higher heat is best). Also, a good, round, bristled brush works well. It is important to portion the hair in small sections and go slowly over each section several times.

Overall, even the best products may not be able to compensate for what nature has given you, or counteract the environment (i.e. humidity outdoors or at work) you're facing. Working with a hairstylist to learn the best techniques for straightening your hair with heat and the appropriate styling tools would be a very good idea (assuming you have not pursued this option yet).

If all else fails, you could consider a process called thermal hair straightening. Thermal hair straightening definitely works, with impressive results that defy even the curliest of locks, and it lasts and lasts, at least until you cut it off. However, the procedure is neither easy nor cheap. It's a multi-step process that can take up to six hours or longer, depending on the length and thickness of your hair, and the cost is between $500 and $1000. The process starts with a pre-conditioner that is meant to protect your hair from the damage caused by the heat and chemicals used during the treatment. Next, a hair relaxer is applied in stages, along with intermittent heat applications and a flat-ironing procedure that is fastidiously applied to small sections of hair. Several hours later, you have unbelievably straight hair that requires little styling time to maintain the appearance.

Despite the claim that this system doesn't damage hair (some go as far to suggest that it essentially repairs hair), that simply is not the case. Anything that alters the structure of your hair is damaging. Unfortunately, the companies making the thermal hair straightening products are not willing to share their ingredient lists, and legally they don't have to. Any product used strictly by licensed hair stylists that is not being sold to the public does not have to include ingredient lists (source: fda.gov). Without knowing the ingredients, I can't verify what is actually happening to your hair, but cosmetic chemists I've spoken to explain that what it takes to change the shape of hair is going to have repercussions no matter how much conditioning is done. Plus, even if the chemicals in the straightening formula aren't problematic, the flat-ironing process is. The thermal iron reaches 356 degrees Fahrenheit. Think about it this way: the boiling point of water is 212 degrees Fahrenheit.

Depending on how fast your hair grows, the new growth that appears will need to be straightened as well, though this is generally less time-consuming and less expensive than the original treatment. Most hair types will have success with this process, except for some hair of African descent or hair that is highlighted. African hair can be too fine and too fragile to handle the chemicals and heat, and excessive breakage and damage can occur. For highlighted hair the varying textures (healthy and dyed—the dyed part being far less healthy) require different processing times, which cannot be adjusted using the thermal straightening system.

Perhaps the one negative, or possibly positive depending on your outlook, aspect you must be prepared for is that your hair will be really, really straight. Be ready for your hair not to hold a curl. For some, perfectly straight hair can seem lifeless, and you may finally find out what your friends with straight hair have been complaining about every time you've coveted their smooth, orderly locks.