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Dear Paula Questions > Question of the month August 2010: Peeling

Question of the month August 2010: Peeling

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Dear Paula,
I have a question about some information you wrote on peeling. You wrote that “if you stop using AHAs, in a short period of time the skin will return to the way it was before.” Also: “Duration [of AHAs] is ongoing while the product is being used.” My question is, what is the benefit of using an AHA product if it does not give any permanent results? And why will the skin eventually return to its original condition if damaged surfaces have been already exfoliated? I would think that if you use enough sun protection, the new skin should remain smooth after all that exfoliation.

Victoria, via email

Dear Victoria,

There are no cosmetic products anywhere to be found that will provide a permanent change to skin. Even Retin-A and Renova (prescription drugs) don’t provide permanent results, and neither do laser resurfacing (though it can last the longest) or peels. The damage of thickened, discolored skin you see on the surface is a result of damaged cell production occurring far deeper in the dermis than AHAs, peels, and lasers can reach. Retin-A and Renova have more effect on actual cell production, but their effect does not continue after you stop, either. The damage that has taken place from previous years of unprotected sun exposure (and that starts from when we are children) is the culprit. Stopping unprotected sun exposure prevents further damage but does not undo what took place in the past.

Many women feel (and I agree) that the benefit from any of the resurfacing treatments is that while you use them for some period of time, the skin absolutely looks better. However, permanently affecting or repairing damaged cell production has yet to be discovered, and the likelihood that it will be in the near or far future is slim.