Sensitive Skin: Hypoallergenic

Cosmetics companies give their claims a scientific coating with words like "dermatologist tested," "noncomedogenic," "hypoallergenic," "designed for sensitive skin," "laboratory tested," and "our research shows." But there are no FDA regulations for the use of these terms and none for the claims that some cosmetics companies make about them (Source: FDA Office of Cosmetics and Colors Fact Sheet, December 19, 1994; revised October 18, 2000).

"Dermatologist tested" does not tell you which dermatologist did the testing, or what he or she tested. "Noncomedogenic" sounds like the product won't cause blackheads, but where is the data on how that was determined? Assuming a test was done, was it was done on the skin of someone who never had a blemish in his or her whole life? Surely the results would be different from a test performed on someone who suffered from acne.

"Hypoallergenic" and "designed for sensitive skin" are nonsense words that imply a product is unlikely to cause allergic reactions. Without firm standards every company can make its own determination of what those words mean. I've seen lots of products that claim to be "safer for sensitive skin," yet they contain problematic plants, fragrance, camphor, alcohol, and myriad other ingredients that are known to cause skin reactions.

"Laboratory tested" and "our research shows" might be all well and good, but if the research was conducted by the company's own lab, it's not exactly independent or unbiased. Furthermore, the test results may just have been the cosmetics chemists saying they like the product a lot. Although a lot of cosmetic testing does go on in the world, there is a lack of it as well. Some endlessly hyped cosmetic ingredients have no research showing efficacy of any kind.

I've searched for abstracts (studies) that evaluate the effectiveness of such heralded cosmetic ingredients as bovine extract, spleen extract, placenta extract, wild yam extract, myriad plant extracts, minerals, emu oil, milk protein, royal jelly, and many, many more in treating aging skin or acne. Other than research commissioned by the companies that sell these ingredients or make products that contain these ingredients, there is nothing proving these are helpful for skin.

The emphasis on miracle plant extracts or animal by-products take a consumer's attention away from ingredients that have proof they can be helpful for skin. Ingredients such as ceramides, glycerin, silicones, glycosaminoglycans, salicylic acid, topical disinfectants, alpha hydroxy acids, various antioxidants, and anti-irritants, all have research that is conclusive. The same is true for over-the-counter and prescription products that have substantiation concerning their effectiveness, such as Retin-A, Renova, Differin (adapelene), topical antibiotics, or Accutane.

The only part of the cosmetics industry that is closely regulated is the ingredient list. In the United States since 1978, in Australia since 1993, and in the European Union since 1997, ingredient lists have been mandatory on every cosmetic product sold, whether it is makeup, skin care, or hair care. (Come on, Canada, what's taking you so long? You still don't have mandatory ingredient listings and there is still no set date for changing this (Source: Health Canada Cosmetic Fact Sheet, July 2001.)

Cosmetics ingredients must be listed in the order of their quantity, beginning with the largest one and going to the smallest, which is why water is almost always the first ingredient. The ingredient list is the only place where a consumer can find the truth about what he or she is buying. Ironically, as accurate and truthful as it is, it's also the most difficult part of the label to decipher. It's not easy for the consumer to differentiate between highly technical ingredient names. And even if you have a basic understanding of cosmetic ingredients, neither the exact amounts nor the formulation specifications are discernible just from reading the ingredient list.

It's my job to figure out what works and what doesn't, and what the most effective quantities are to get results. Over the past 20 years I've continually reviewed and discussed formulary considerations with cosmetics chemists and pored over the available research on a wide range of cosmetic ingredients.

If It Sounds Too Good to Be True...
Not everything on the market can be a miracle, so if it sounds too good to be true, then it probably isn't true. Any sales technique that tries to convince you that a product can live up to most your wildest dreams for clear, smooth, wrinkle-free, acne-free skin, and without any negative side effects, is the essence of snake-oil salesmanship. How can you stop getting taken? If you can recognize these fraudulent marketing contrivances, you are well on your way to helping your hair, your skin, and your budget.